Childhood memories often hold the sweetest flavors, and for Mark Hix, those flavors were of the sea. Growing up in West Bay, Dorset, meant front-row seats to the daily drama of fishing life. He'd watch the trawlers return, laden with queen scallops, and his school lunch would be a simple treat of scallop meat in vinegar and pepper. But here's where it gets controversial: the queen scallop isn't as popular anymore. Why?
Well, the time it takes to prepare them is about the same as for the larger king scallops, making them less profitable. Plus, the fishing methods have evolved. Instead of damaging dredging, divers now harvest king scallops more sustainably. This shift has led to two main dive boats dominating the local market, run by Jon Shuker and Ali Day. They've even started experimenting with "disco scallops" – caught using pots with flashing lights to lure them in.
And this is the part most people miss: While more efficient for the crew, the yield from disco scallops isn't as high. The innovation did, however, win an award for sustainable fishing.
This all explains why scallops come with a higher price tag. But it's a price that reflects the care taken in their harvest.
Did you know? The damage caused by unsustainable fishing practices is a serious concern. The David Attenborough documentary Ocean highlighted the devastating impact of dredging on the seabed, a scene that even moved the author's daughter to tears.
Scallops have always been a staple in Mark Hix's cooking. He's served them in countless ways – with black pudding, chorizo, or even raw in ceviche. The West Country scallops may not be as large as the Scottish ones, but they're a fraction of the price.
This week's recipe is a simple yet elegant way to enjoy scallops at home.
Baked Scallops with Herb Crust
- Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 12 scallops, cleaned and on the half-shell
- Flaky sea salt and black pepper
- 80g butter
- 2 medium shallots, peeled and finely chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
- 100g fresh white breadcrumbs
- 3 tbsp chopped soft herbs – parsley, chives, tarragon or chervil, or a mixture
Instructions:
- Preheat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7.
- Place the scallops on a baking tray and season.
- Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Sauté the shallots and garlic for a couple of minutes until softened but not colored.
- Remove from heat and stir in the breadcrumbs and herbs. Season.
- Spoon the herby breadcrumbs evenly over the scallops.
- Bake for 6-8 minutes, until golden.
- Serve immediately, ideally with a crisp white wine.
Want to elevate the recipe? Consider adding crumbled black pudding, fried chorizo, lemon zest, or a splash of white vermouth or pastis.
What are your thoughts? Do you think sustainable fishing practices are worth the higher cost? Share your opinion in the comments below!
